Friday, April 6, 2007

Hand made air filters

I believe that nothing can replace original air filters. There are many types, brands, and different designs being sold. Some are for heavy or long span use, some are for racing, and some are just identical to the original part.

I often get old cars and bikes that have a very dirty air filter, damaged ones or the vehicle does not have the air filter at all. If I know that I can still make money on the vehicle, I will surely get a proper air filter for it but if I’m just going to play with it maybe I will just use a leg stocking for the air filter (I’m a “cheap” guy remember…)

I also have tried using sport filter foams, ventilation filters, air conditioning filters, mesh screens, but leg stocking is my favorite because they are the cheapest and they work! There is really nothing much to say about how to make them, just look at the photos and you’ll know how to make your own “sexy” air filter. Just remember to keep it thin or air passage will be affected. I use about two layers and thats it. Replace or clean it always especially if you use your bike on dusty off road areas.

Here is a picture of a leg stocking used as an air filter for my KDX200. I don’t have the bike with me anymore but it was a fun bike and I never had problems with my homemade air filter. I did lots of repairs on my KDX like new fork oil seals, new rear suspension oil seal, carburetor overhaul, engine tuning, iridium spark plug, suspension linkage repairs, new competition tires, new competition tubes, new rims, new handle bar, new steering head bearings, and lots more but I just couldn’t afford a proper air filter… hahaha!

Source: Repair Guides

Monday, April 2, 2007

Six Types of Storage

You will need six types of storage on your motorcycle i.e. secure, convenient, cool, protective, bulk and available. In all instances the level of waterproof protection is important.

1) Secure Storage.
This is a major issue when touring on a motorcycle. At least one hard lock up pannier, a fanny bag, a money belt are all important. A 'Pacsafe' (see pic below) is a good idea for your bulk storage. Money and travellers cheques should be broken into groups and stored in more than one place.

A spiral cable lock (approx. 1 meter in length and 10mm thick) is also useful for items like your helmet and jacket. By threading the cable through the arms and helmet visor you can take a walk or do some shopping without having to worry too much. Experienced bike tourers suggest a dummy wallet while the bulk of your valuables are somewhere else.

2) Convenient Storage.
Money, maps, compass, GPS, camera, liquids and rain gear must be readily available.

3) Cool Storage.
You should also have a special 'cool' section for items like medication, batteries and camera film.

4) Protective Storage.
Motorcycles vibrate even on excellent roads - now add a poor surface like gravel, add dust, add rain and viola! You have a killer environment for your camera, video camera, GPS etc Too much dust and/or vibration and you may just find your equipment jamming/failing in the middle of a once in a lifetime tour. Special protective equipment bags and boxes are available that offer moisture, vibration and dust protection e.g. Pelican

5) Bulk Storage.
Your solution here will probably be a soft bag with items like clothing, mattress, bike spares and a tent. Whatever you choose find something that is waterproof.

A way of making your bulk storage more secure is to purchase a thin cable-stranded net designed for backpackers from a hiking store. This netting encloses the whole bag and is this then padlocked closed.

A 'Pacsafe' can keep all your soft luggage safe and secure. They are made in a variety of sizes and each size is adjustable.

6) Available
You must have a convenient storage place which is available and empty and can immediately absorb a road-side purchase eg lunch and dinner provisions. Personally I find a tank bag the best solution here.

Sunday, April 1, 2007

Exclusive Ferrari chopper

There are a lot of superlatives that could be equally applied to Ferraris and to custom choppers by their respective enthusiasts, and we're not going to try to name them all. But that's probably why there have been so many efforts to blend the two, with varied results.

One builder of custom choppers built a red stallion for Michael Schumacher upon his retirement. Another motorcycle craftsman built two one-off sport-bikes: one powered by a Ferrari V12 and another with a V8 out of a Ferrari 308. Even legendary custom bike designer Arlen Ness styled a chopper after the iconic Testarossa.

The latest crossover between the world of the steel stallion and the prancing horse is this custom chopper, powered by the 140-hp engine from the Triumph 955 Triple. The high-gloss red paintjob even comes complete with race livery, but after watching Harley Davidson and the Marlboro Man, we're surprised the builder didn't include the team's principle sponsor. The bike was recently up for sale on eBay for about fifteen grand.

Pretty sad actually.... A Ferrari with a triumph engine

And if I wanted the Ferrari of bikes, I would rather go for the MV Agusta F4C

See the video here

YouTube - Formula Chopper

Source: ...

Friday, March 30, 2007

Crash Protectors (Frame Slider) Design and Selection

Call them crash protectors, crash bobbins, fairing protectors or frame sliders, all these products ultimately seek to do one thing - protect your expensive bodywork or the essential and often expensive structural parts of your motorcycle from damage in the even of a fall or tip-over. The frame slider concept is as old as the proverbial 'crash bar' and today there are as many designs and brands as there are models of bikes. The proliferation of these types of products testify to the success of the idea of providing a sacrificial item to absorb some of the damage in the event of a fall. We are by no means experts on this concept nor were we the first to come up with it, but in this article we hope to provide you with an unbiased view so that you can make an informed decision when you're ready to put down your hard earned cash.

Cost:

Cost of the frame sliders must be appropriate to the items that they are designed to protect. Price is not necessarily the best indicator of quality. Poorly designed frame sliders made of the nicest shiniest materials may not serve their purpose as well as well designed but less 'bling' ones.

Mounting Configurations:

The frame slider must be designed to mount securely onto a strong enough part of the motorcycle so that impact forces can be adequately distributed or absorbed. Here are some popular mounting configurations.

Fairing Mounted Frame Sliders

Sliders that mount onto the fairing with small fairing screws may provide some protection in a minor tip-over but offer very minimal protection in a slide. These sliders are not generally recommended for serious riders.

Frame Mounted Sliders - Direct

The most popular and viable mounting option is directly to a selected strong point of the frame. Sliders with this design offer the most protection and impact force distribution. The installation of this type of slider often require modification of the fairing and in some cases like the Honda VFR800, as extreme as requiring the modification of the coolant bottle. For this reason, many choose the first or the third option as fairing modification can at times be quite intimidating. This option is the most popular for serious sportsriders, amateur and semi-professional racers alike as they provide the best protection for the money. One other thing to consider when choosing these types of sliders is where they will be mounted to.

Many models of sportbikes offer several places to mount them, frame slider manufacturers all have their personal reasons for choosing the mounting location for theirs and many of them make that choice for the wrong reasons. An example is cost - a location that offers a two short bolt mounting location is cheaper than one using a long through the engine bolt choice. The former being a much weaker location. If you own an SV650 you will know what we mean. Another choice is the use of a bracket so that cutting of the fairing is avoided - see below (Frame Mounted Frame Sliders-Through-Engine Bolts).

Frame Mounted Sliders - In-Direct

To address some of the concerns owners may have about modification of the fairing, some manufacturers have opted for a design that allows for the slider to mount onto an offset bracket that then mounts onto the frame. This offset introduces a whole new set of variables into the mix. Depending on the degree of the offset, impact forces now include amplified torque stresses which will be applied to the frame mounting points. Offset brackets will need to be of beefier construction, but not so beefy as to stay intact during an impact while severely damaging the frame mounting points. This is often the most costly type of slider configuration as most brackets require ingenious CNC work and design. In some situations employment of a bracket is a calculated risk, in others it is just not feasible. No cut sliders are attractive to most bikers so do your homework and ask the manfacturer questions before you buy them.

Frame Mounted Frame Sliders-Through-Engine Bolts

The third mounting option found only on certain models of bikes like the Suzuki DL1000 Vstrom, TL1000S, SV650 and Ducati models of bikes allow for use of the long, through-the-engine mounting bolt. This method is by far the strongest available as impact forces are allowed to be distributed over a much larger area. This is also the second more costly design as these long bolts are quite expensive to manufacture. The design must be structurally strong enough not to break off when encountering the various types of impact forces but not so strong that these forces would be transmitted entirely to and damage the considerably more costly frame mounting points. In other words you want to sacrifice your slider before your fairing and then your frame in that order. It's a delicate balance and there is no sure way to ensure that any one design will accomplish this desired goal.

Frame Slider Material:

The choice of material used for the frame slider should be a balance of the following 3 requirements:

Abrasion Resistance - the material should be hard enough to be able to slow the bike down in a slide and not be totally worn down to the bolt half way through a slide

Structural Strength - the material should be strong but not brittle and snap off too easily on impact

Energy Absorption-the material used should have some energy absorbing properties but not be so hard that all impact forces are transmitted to the mounting points or fasteners (solid steel or aluminum materials are examples of non-energy absorbing materials).

Most high quality frame sliders today are made of some kind of nylon or other for energy absorption and with aluminum inserts for strengthening of the fastening points. The range of nylon types, with different levels of abrasion resistance and "brittleness" used is also quite varied.

Fasteners and Components:

Quality of materials used, aesthetics and quality of workmanship should also be considered when choosing the right frame slider for your bike. Look for high quality anodized steel bolts. Black non-coated bolts will rust in a week or less depending where you live. Stainless steel washers between your steel bolts and aluminum inserts in the slider also reduce potential corrosion problems. Socket head cap screws offer the smallest footprint allowing for a thicker and stronger slider dimensions and are generally much more expensive then regular hex-head screws. Nyloc lock nuts where applicable are another added safety feature. True, these are all minor considerations in the overall scheme of things but they all add up to the cost of manufacturing. One last thing to remember is to always try to use some form of thread lock compound like Loctite and to properly torque the mounting bolts to the manufacturer's recommendations. If you're not sure check out our torque reference guide.

CONCLUSION:

Where does that leave you the consumer? Well, we all don't want to think about the day when we will be able to justify the purchase of frame sliders. The reality is that as long as bikes have only two wheels, you can expect them to fall over sooner or later. Frame sliders are one of the surest and least expensive ways to ensure some protection for the expensive or sometimes irreplaceable parts of your bike. After all some protection is still better than none. Think about broken rear brake levers, gear shifters or even worse - punctured radiators or coolant bottles, when you're miles from civilization. The rule is the same in our opinion no matter what you're spending your money on - buy the best you can afford and don't be afraid to ask the manufacturer why their product is better than the plethora of other brands available out there. Any good manufacturer will be very clear about what differentiates their products form others so that you will be able to make the correct purchase decision.

Article Source: ...

Is Your Motorcycle Leather Protecting You?

BEEMERS and their gear!

Effective Motorcycle Security



On the whole, motorcycle owners put more love and care into their machines than do owners of cars or trucks. That "love and care" directly translates into hundreds of dollars spent on customizations and maintenance. Sadly, between 30,000 to 50,000 bikes are stolen each year in the United States alone (based on theft rates from 2000 through 2005). And to think, many of these thefts could have been prevented with a little common sense and security.

Common Sense This should go without saying, but don't leave the keys in the ignition or the motor running when you're not on the bike! Never leave your bike in a dimly lit, hard to see location. Put the bike in your locked garage when you are at home.

Locks and Chains One item every bike owner should purchase is a thick U-lock or chain that can be easily spotted by anyone, day or night. This is a must- have, unless its so big that it's impossible to tote around with you. Simply wrapping your chain through a wheel and your bike frame is not enough -- you have to mount the bike to a sturdy pole or clamp mounted in concrete. If the bike isn't mounted to a stationary object, a thief could just pack up your bike in a truck and drive away.

Electronic Alarms Most modern bikes (larger than a scooter) have some form of factory immobilization that prevents casual theft, but such immobilizers alone won't stop a determined thief. It's therefore best to consider an electronic security system, often called an "alarm." A good alarm system does more than just make noise, it has circuitry that prevents false triggers, adds secondary points of immobilization, and sounds a loud siren only when a threat against your bike is real. Some have digital tilt sensors, shock sensors and other sensors that trip the system into action. One excellent electronic alarm from Japan is the CYCLONE 866F: www.kiramek.com. The Japanese manufacturer of Cyclone also offers a 1-way paging system that instantly alerts you when a threat occurs. The system is also claimed to be very low-power, eliminating worry of your battery being drained.

Two-way Paging Alarms Over the last 3 years, some electronic alarms have begun to include 2-way pagers. These systems allow you to both control the alarm and receive notification of threats. Unfortunately, battery life for many of these two-way pagers is limited to about 1 month, and the pagers themselves can be easily broken by a simple fall from your pants pocket. Two-way systems also may drain a bike's battery quickly unless you ride it daily. Even so, for some people the convenience aspect may outweigh the negatives for some bike owners.

Tracking Systems As of 2005, some companies have come out with GPS tracking systems for bikes that allow a stolen bike to be traced. While tracking systems do have merits over other types of security, there are three important downsides that must be considered: (1) battery drain on the bike, (2) service area (tracking) coverage, and (3) monthly cost.

Most tracking systems require you to pay not only for the product itself but also each and every month to keep the "service contract" alive. The long term cost of tracking systems may leave a bad taste in the mouth of the average bike owner. Think about how much you already pay per month (phone bill, mobile phone, internet, etc.) and you can see why tacking on another subscription is cost prohibitive.

LoJack is one tracking system manufacturer who does not charge any monthly fees, but their least expensive bike system runs $595 and traceability is limited to the coverage area of wireless towers installed by LoJack and some police stations. Once your LoJack "protected" vehicle exits the coverage area, its off the map and not traceable. Of course, LoJack will refund the price of the product, but that refund doesn't replace your bike. Nor does that refund cover any special installation fees you might have paid or any insurance deductible you might have.

Conclusion Use a layered approach to security. Common sense dictates that you put your bike in a location that is not an obvious target for thieves. You'll then need a chain or U-lock to prevent casual theft. And lastly, even if your bike has a factory immobilizer, the addition of an electronic alarm or tracking system will act as a significant deterrent to theft.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR. James Wages has a BSEE from CSU Fresno and has worked in the automotive security aftermarket since 1994

Thursday, March 29, 2007

MOTORCYCLE LIGHTS THE LATEST TECHNOLOGY

Motorcycle lights come on the bike. Right? Sure they do, but you can bet the manufacturer supplies the bare basics of lighting. Our advice is to get the basic bike you want and THEN light it up, chrome it up and have the bike that you really truly WANT!

Lights are an essential safety feature whether you tend to ride your motorcycle in the broad open daylight or the deepest, darkest night. Proper lighting can be one of the best ways to protect yourself from errant pedestrians and motorists as well. There is no chrome or leather accessory that will prove as valuable to your personal protection as steady, bright and attention commanding lighting when the circumstances call for it.

You don't have to look very hard for some really cool lighting accessories. Among the many possibilities, there are LED lights that you can mount everywhere from behind the headlight to under the tag. The Hyper-strips and LED characteristics will allow installation where until now, lack mountable space and electrical demands made such uses of lighting impossible. Even older bikes with pitifully wimpy alternators can have a really cool neon glow and certainly hold their own amongst the new custom bikes.

Many custom bikes are designed with lighting display in mind. Clearance and wiring layouts are pre-meditated to accept as many LED strips that will hold as many bulbs as possible. Who would have thought when hanging ropes of Christmas tree lights on the metal gutters that they would make their way onto the iron horse as decorations?

For chrome and motorcycle lighting accessories it's hard to beat the benchmarks of the motorcycle industry. Your dealer can provide you with top of the line lights from many vendors. Rest assured if your lights come from any of the following suppliers that you will be getting a quality product.

  • Custom Chrome
  • Pro-one
  • Midwest
  • Drag Specialties

To find these products, you may wish to cruise the catalogs of J and P Cycles and Bike Bandit online. You can often find excellent bargains there.

Some of the existing motorcycle lights that you can accent on your bike are

  • Fog lights (fondly called ditch lights)
  • Brake lights
  • Tail lights
  • Signal lights
  • Running lights

    You can get motorcycle lights and mirrors in skull, iron cross or just flashy eye-catching chrome. Beware of the "too cheap to be true" phenomenon. Wherever you may shop, this is one area that you get what you pay for. There have been recent reports of super cheap chrome items corroding and exhibiting discoloration in record time.

    When you see accessories pulling this number on an immaculate and otherwise well cared for motorcycle. Motorcycle lighting fixtures should be shiny, bright and above all rust and corrosion free! It may be worth your while to get some bike maintenance training in this area. If you do your homework and learn to do your installations yourself you can spend the money saved on more motorcycle lights and accessories!

    For more information and other motorcycle accessories, go the the gogocycles.com home page!

    Disclaimer: Information on this website is for information only.